A Short History of Braiding
Braids are the oldest form of art that is part of tribal customs. It traces back to 3500 BC in Egypt. Every region and tribe in Africa has its own distinct style of hair braiding. Traditionally, braids are a social art, they are a means of communication. An individual could distinguish a wealth of information about another person, whether they were married, mourning, or of age for courtship simply by observing their hairstyle. Some styles also informed others of an individual’s status in society.1 To understand the history of braids, it’s important to understand the significance and effect of slavery on African women. Braids were known to be used to hide rice or seeds in their hair in order to have food to eat on their middle passage journey. Black women also used braids as a secret messaging system for slaves to communicate with one another, as well as using braids as a map to freedom.2 Hair was an important piece of a complex language system. It’s amazing, truly. Over the last 5,000 years, the appearance of braids have slightly changed, but the techniques depicted through ancient drawings and artifacts have stayed the same. In the 1950’s, braids seemed to make a comeback. At that time, the afro was also becoming popular for Black Americans. By 1969, hairstyles came to symbolize a movement as race relations were on the way to becoming a heated issue. Black artists, scholars and activists began to look towards African hairstyles, such as braids. It wasn’t until the 1970’s when West African immigrants brought more styles of braiding to America.3
Braids to me
For many Black women, like myself, braiding has served as a right of passage. It was either every week or twice a month when I was sitting on the living room floor between my mother’s legs watching a number of movies while she braided my hair. It was also a form of bonding. The social art aspect of getting braids began with elders braiding their children, then the children would watch and learn from them, braiding their friends, siblings, and family members. I’ve been getting my hair braided for as long as I can remember, from cornrows, to box braids, Fulani braids, and Ghana braids, these were all very popular styles growing up. I would wear them to school, special events, or to go for a swim. They took so much time to get done, I didn’t always love the experience, but it was mostly very soothing. I grew up to eventually learn to braid my own hair and I hope that someday I can pass this experience on to my own children and their children.
Braids Expanding into Art
In today’s culture, braids are adored, praised and worn in so many different ways. Braid styles are approached differently and are worn by men and women all over. In the late 90’s and early 2000’s, I remember seeing hair shows on television and in magazines of braids being done in the most intricate and complex styles I had ever seen. The term ‘hairstyles’ had evolved to ‘braiding artist’ because that is exactly what they did, they created art in the style of braids on an individual’s head. “South Side braiding artist Shani Crowe has work that’s been featured in the New York Times, Vogue, Elle, Essence, Allure and Glamour magazines.”4
“Braiding isn’t the only medium I use in my artistic practice, but it’s important for me to give honor to my experience and all that it has given me. Hair is an important part of black and African culture. My hair work is always intended to venerate the image of the black woman.”
— Shani Crowe
“Because braids are coming out in pop culture and being exploited as a trend in the fashion scene, I think it’s important for me to honor them, before there’s a time when people don’t even remember them as a traditional black art. Plenty of cultures do their own braid styling, but African braiding has its own very long chapter in the history of braiding.”
— Shani Crowe
Braids are not just a style, the craft is a form of art. Black men and women everywhere are getting their hair braided on a day-to-day basis, whether it’s just to get your natural hair out of your face or for a special occasion. The art of braiding has truly emerged beyond its original cultural meaning. They’re more than just a hairstyle, they are an artistic craft as well as a way of expressing our personalities and style! Today, braids have crossed paths with political issues and the conversation of cultural appropriation. To me, when other people wear braids, it shows that my people are nothing but the starters for every trend that’s popular in our generation.
Bib:
1: “Braids: Braiding Is A Social Art.” Iles Formula, 16 May 2020, ilesformula.com/african-braids/.
2: Kiros, Lydia. “The Rich History of Braids.” Amplify Africa, Amplify Africa, 11 Sept. 2020, www.amplifyafrica.org/post/the-rich-history-of-braids.
3: Iradukunda, Par Aurore, and Writer – Aurore Iradukunda. “SHANI CROWE CELEBRATES BLACK FEMININE BEAUTY COIFFEUR.” SAYASPORA, sayaspora.com/she-shani-crowe-celebrates-black-feminine-beauty-coiffeur/.
Header Image: “Suntrust”: by Shani Crowe/Photo: Shani Crowe
— Gloria
